Two steps back, one step forward

I've been plugging away at getting this car back to its original standard. A large part of the problem in getting it done in a reasonable time frame is waiting for parts to be delivered from Latvia - and then having to wait longer because I realise I need more parts. They say measure twice, cut once...

So I started plugging away at my checklist. Some things I know will be complicated, such as the roof, and other things will likely be simple and a degradation issue - like the wiper fluid level low warning on the OBC (not mentioned in previous post). After spending a day or so trying to work out where the factory amplifier was (and Google not providing clear answers), I decided to tackle the wiper fluid level low warning on the OBC. I popped the bonnet, and found the reservoir was about 70% full. I filled it, and continued to get the warning. After removing the reservoir and having a further look, I discovered there was a sensor -  it appears to be a moulded plastic air-filled float that carries a metallic magnet (it was rusted), that when in the full position triggers a reed switch. I'm not sure whether it's a normally open or normally closed reed switch, but it doesn't really matter - a bit of tape to hold the magnet/float against the top of the reed to emulate a full signal resulted in disappearance of the error. So, looking at the float, I see that the space that should be full of air is full of water - float does not float. I zip tied the the magnet/float against the reed and reinstalled it. I prefer to have a full array of functional sensors, but having trained as a motor mechanic previously, I think I can keep an eye on my wiper fluid! Plus, the sensors (61311388578) are $50 AUD new, which is half the price of a nice OEM leather gear knob. I plan to drill into the float and drain it later, then reseal it with an epoxy, like Araldite.

Factory washer fluid reservoir sensor. Common to a few models.

Yesterday I started looking into finalising something that's been bugging - no sound from the stereo. My research had lead me to believe that then late model convertibles had a 10 speakers driven by an amplifier from factory - I discovered the amp behind the rear seat on the driver's side. I decided, without really looking into it, that because the previous owner had installed an aftermarket head unit (Kenwood KMM-BT303), the OEM amp had been "over amplified", killing the 5x TDA 1552Q 22Wx2 internal amplifier chips. How do I know this? Well, I found someone on Facebook wrecking a convertible, and I bought a replacement "known working" amp for $36. While I waited for it to be delivered, I decided to see if I could see any obvious faults in the original amp, such as swollen capacitors or melted traces. As it turns out, the PCB and its components looked perfect. My crappy electronic engineering skills told me that perhaps two of the diodes on the power circuit had been over-volted (and thus allowed current to flow both ways), but I wasn't convinced.

The replacement amp arrived today, and after eagerly installing it, I was pretty annoyed that it didn't work either. The story from the previous owner was that it "just stopped working one day. And I have the receipt for the new head unit". So I decided to get the multimeter out and check what sort of voltages were floating around - as after very thorough review of the 10-speaker system wiring diagram, I knew that the amp was always receiving 12v+ via fuse #9 (20A), as was the radio - as this fuse can't be blown because a) the radio works, and b) it wasn't blown (the radio and amp receive 12v+ via a tied line from fuse #9). The reason the amp doesn't drain the battery constantly is because of the white amp turn on wire, as triggered by the radio - I guess it either switches a small SMD relay in the amp itself, or possibly uses a diode as a relay. Anyway, when testing the voltages at the main 12 pin connector on the amp - I found that the thick brown wire (pin #3) is earth, and is always earth. The thin white wire (pin #2) is the amp turn on wire, and has continuity with the equivalent at he back of the head unit. It receives 12v+ when the ignition is in ACC or ON. Pin #1, 12v+, gets 0v+ when the ignition if OFF, and only 1.5v+ when the ignition is on. Ah!! This says to me that the amp is receiving insufficient power to turn on, despite being told to turn on - and it's probably because of damaged wiring between the junction between the head unit and fuse #9, and the amp. I confirmed this by running a bypass directly from the battery 12v+ terminal to pin #1 on the amp, and music played first go. Glorious! Rather than pull the car apart chasing the damage to the loom, I decided to make the bypass permanent with a ring terminal, inline fuse holder and 20A fuse, and equivalent gauge wire. After turning the sound up a little, I discovered the rear left speaker (well, one of them) has some crackling - a new set of speakers will be on the cards eventually. Possibly the Bavsound kit.

Bypass: earth from a chassis mounted bolt, amp turn on as-is, 12v+ from the battery 12v+.

Sound, in the first instance.

A bit of progress is always welcome.

Showing the bypass, and the sealed wire cut from the factory loom.

As for the antenna - I received the OEM antenna rubber seal, and wasn't satisfied with the fitment. After fiddling around with it, and removing the antenna module, I noticed that after removing the the large nut off the module, the wire beneath it was broken (difficult to explain). I decided to disassemble to module to try and repair it........and snapped the whole thing in half. Damn. Cheapest is $177 AUD, again from Latvia. As I listen to radio very, very rarely (ie: never), it's not a huge problem. But it's used for emergency broadcasts here, so it probably needs to work. I've organised to pick up a secondhand module for $25 in a few days, and I've ordered a Myldan 65mm short stubby aerial from eBay for $30 AUD to replace the factory whip, so that should cover it. Hopefully.

In the meantime, my airbag code reader tool arrived today, as well as a pair of new seat belt outlet trims for the convertible front seat belts. They'll go in in the next few days, and efforts into discovering why the airbag light on the dash is illuminated will begin. I feel it's something to do with the previous owner installing the E46 M3 front seats. I'm also still getting a brake light warning on the OBC - sounds like the common issues are the loom on the passenger side of the trunk lid (fraying or damage inside the sheath), or a worn brake pedal switch. Multimeter!!

It's been a long time...

And I'm back. A lot has changed since my last post, but the tinkering still happens.

I've purchased a 1999 BMW 328i convertible M sport, that I'm currently restoring. It was a good price, with the body being virtually perfect, 160,000Km, M52TUB28 manual, colour matched roof, an individual with some nice upgrades (E46 M3 seats, Kenwood CDless headunit that colour matches the dash lighting). It has has the most expected problem - the roof isn't working. But it's otherwise an excellent car to drive, and that VANOS with the top down on a nice day is amazing fun.









'99 E36 Convertible in Nachtblau (Midnight Blue), with M52TUB28 and 5 speed



List of repairs:
Roof
Does not go up or down correctly
Rear window is "milky"
Rear window has come away from the roof material (making a hole)
Broken interior trim
Shifter surround
Gear knob
Front seatbelt outlets
"Sloppy" shifter
Very ambiguous shifter feel (needs a rebuild)
No sound from the stereo
Likely the factory amplifier is dead
Rubber grommet missing from around antenna on rear driver's side quarter panel
Airbag light
Uncertain about this
Wiring for front electric seats
Apparently wired to the interior lights


The main issues for getting it roadworthy and re-registered are the roof - I can manually raise and secure it, however the milky window and hole are issues - and the airbag light. I've started sourcing and fitting parts - mostly interior, because they're easy and aesthetically pleasing! As the car was optioned with woodgrain highlights, and I hate woodgrain, I've managed to source a few replacement pieces in the much preferable schwarz colour - mainly front and rear ashtrays, handbrake handle, and light adjust panel. Still looking for a decent shifter surround, and will likely buy a new five speed M sport leather gear knob.






I've found realoem.com an excellent source of information, although it does require a bit of careful study to ensure you've found the right part. So far, I've ordered and/or replaced for the interior:
Cover, belt outlet, left & right (#51438176283 & #51438176284)
Front and rear ashtrays (?#51168144797 & #51168217482)
Handbrake lever handle (#34412227558)
Covering illumination regulator (#63128353004)




Some parts I haven't ordered yet, such as the glovebox panel (51168170665), or the missing exterior badges (328i & "M", 51148170187 & 51148108831, 51132264666 x 2) , because I'm hoping to source them secondhand locally. Most of this stuff new comes all the way from Latvia and Lithuania!










As for the roof, it has been interesting. I've never worked on a convertible roof before, so the learning curve has been moderately steep. It's also quite unforgiving, because if something is out of alignment, parts can be destroyed and body panels damaged. At the moment, I've identified three problems with the roof:



Roof latch motor "strains" when lowering or raising the roof for part of its cycle
My thoughts are that the arms next to the latch mechanism that are responsible for raising and lowering the first "segment" of the roof to/from the windscreen are in need of lubrication and/or adjustment. Or, the worn tension straps aren't providing the necessary assistance.
Roof/tonneau cover motor "clunks", and does not raise the cover high enough to the clear the rearmost bow of the roof
I believe that the two struts responsible for assisting the motor in lifting and lowering the cover ("gas pressurised spring", 51258132679 x 2) are worn, not raising the cover high enough (and possibly not closing the cover enough as well).
Roof rearmost bow does not go completely vertical, coming into contact with the tonneau cover
I'm not certain here, but I think this is a combination of the single gas strut in the roof mechanism (54318135313) being worn, the bow tension spring being worn (54348201077 - repair kit), and the original elastic tension straps (can't find an OEM part number, sorry) being worn.










Roof/tonneau cover mechanism, with one of two struts highlighted.
















The result of all this nonsense is that the tonneau cover has copped some wear marks, the roof/tonneau cover motor gear has worn and possibly bent its bracket - all because of a few small parts. And from my research, this is all pretty commonplace. Unfortunately, I'll need a new roof - the window can't be repaired without pulling off the roof, and an auto trimmer I spoke to believes it probably won't go back on. Damn. And it's such a nice roof, too. So as such, I've ordered a bunch of new parts:

Bow Spring Repair Kit - this replaces the existing two springs in the rear bow (that sits against the roof/tonneau cover when the roof is erected). The kit comes as a pair, meaning one kit repairs both left and right sides. It contains left and right springs, two washers and two retaining screws. I haven't quite worked out their specific function, but on looking at the roof yesterday trying to work out why the rear bow doesn't go completely vertical during the open/close cycle (and strikes the roof/tonneau cover), I can push on the rear bow (towards the front of the car), and will move forward to a vertical position - and then it falls back down a few degrees again. So we'll see if the springs help, but fresh parts can't hurt.








Rear bow tension spring repair kit.









Roof Lining Repair Kit - this replaces the C-shaped clips that suspend the roof lining above your head. My roof lining currently catches on the felt trim behind the rear headrests as it folds away, and pulls the trim off. The latch motor cover trim (54348206397) has broken its two retaining clips, so that doesn't help. I'll need to repair that, as most secondhand replacements are broken in the same way, and the new OEM units are quite expensive. So this RLRK will be a "just because" while the roof is off, and the latch motor cover trim will be repaired (detailed in a later post). The kit contains six metal C clamps, six screws, and two plastic plugs.






Roof lining repair kit.

Roof/Tonneau Cover Motor Gear - within a few cycles of raising and lowering the roof/tonneau cover, the motor displayed signs that it was either misaligned with its gearset, or its gears were excessively worn. I pulled the motor out yesterday to investigate it, and whilst it doesn't look overly worn or damaged, it can be hard to tell while the grease is there. I figured they weren't overly expensive, so I'd just replace it. I still need to check that the receiving gearset itself isn't damaged. In the photo, the receiving gearset is what the exposed gear pushes into when the motor is engaged.






Roof/tonneau cover motor, with replacement gear.



A new roof and tension strap kit will come next, when I can justify the cost. I have a few other miscellaneous trim parts coming, and a replacement OEM amplifier to confirm the issue with my sound system. I think I'll probably use the housing from the dead amp to hide some crossovers to drive the tweeters (as per factory), and rely on the aftermarket head unit to do the amplification. The airbag light, wiring for front seats and gear shifter will come at a later stage.